Friday, July 1, 2011
How to avoid 7 Common On-The-Job Mistakes
Wednesday, June 15, 2011
Is it safe to Bank online?
Related articles
- Citigroup Data Breach: A Lesson and Warning For All (blogs.forbes.com)
- Citibank Breach: 6 Tips to Bank Safely (abcnews.go.com)
Sunday, January 23, 2011
repetition and practices
And I tell them this," If you do want to play tennis is does not come easy. When I started out, I was clueless like you too when I just started. It's all about repetition and lots of practice".
It took me almost 3 years to be good and proficient tennis player.
"Patience and enjoying the game is important too", I added.
.
Thursday, May 6, 2010
The Worst Words to Say at Work
Some words and phrases are often used to buy time, avoid giving answers, and escape commitment. If you use these words and phrases yourself, take a scalpel and cut them out of your thinking, speaking, and writing.
"Try"
"Try" is a weasel word. "Well, I'll try," some people say. It's a cop-out. They're just giving you lip service, when they probably have no real intention of doing what you ask. Remember what Yoda says to Luke Skywalker in "Star Wars": "Do or do not--there is no try." Take Yoda's advice. Give it your all when you do something. And if it doesn't work, start over. Put passion into your work, and give it your best effort, so you can know that you did all you could to make it happen. So if the outcome you were expecting didn't come to fruition, it's not because you didn't do everything you could to make it happen. It just wasn't the right time for it or it wasn't meant to be.
"Whatever"
This word is a trusted favorite of people who want to dismiss you, diminish what you say, or get rid of you quickly. "Whatever," they will say as an all-purpose response to your earnest request. It's an insult and a verbal slap in the face. It's a way to respond to a person without actually responding. When you say "whatever" after another person has said his or her piece, you have essentially put up a wall between the two of you and halted any progress in communicating. It's a word to avoid.
"Maybe" and "I don't know"
People will sometimes avoid making a decision--and hide behind words and phrases like "maybe" and "I don't know." There's a difference between legitimately not knowing something and using words like these as excuses. Sometimes during a confrontation, people will claim not to know something or offer the noncommittal response "maybe," just to avoid being put on the spot. If that seems to be the case, ask, "When do you think you will know?" or "How can you find out?" Don't let the person off the hook so easily.
"I'll get back to you"
When people need to buy time or avoid revealing a project's status, they will say, "I'll get back to you," and they usually never do. If people say they will get back to you, always clarify. Ask them when they will get back to you, and make sure they specify the day and time. If they don't, then pin them down to a day and time and hold them to it. If they won't give you a day or time, tell them you'll call in a day or week and follow up. Make sure you call and get the information you need.
"If"
Projects depend on everyone doing his or her part. People who use "if" are usually playing the blame game and betting against themselves. They like to set conditions, rather than assuming a successful outcome. People who rely on conditional responses are fortifying themselves against potential failure. They will say, "If Bob finishes his part, then I can do my part." They're laying the groundwork for a "no fault" excuse and for not finishing their work.
There are always alternatives, other routes, and ways to get the job done. Excuse makers usually have the energy of a slug and the spine of a jellyfish. You don't want them on your team when you're trying to climb Mt. Everest.
"Yes, but . . ."
This is another excuse. You might give your team members suggestions or solutions, and they come back to you with "Yes, but . . ." as a response. They don't really want answers, help, or solutions. You need to call the "Yes, but . . ." people out on their avoidance tactic by saying something like "You know, Jackie, every time I offer you a suggestion you say, 'Yes, but . . . ,' which makes me think you don't really want to solve this problem. That's not going to work. If you want to play the victim, go right ahead, but I'm not going to allow you to keep this up." After a response like that, you can be assured that the next words you hear will not be "Yes, but . . ."!
"I guess . . ."
This is usually said in a weak, soft-spoken, shoulder-shrugging manner. It's another attempt to shirk responsibility--a phrase that is muttered only when people half agree with you but want to leave enough leeway to say, "Well, I didn't really know. . . . I was only guessing." If you use this phrase, cut it out of your vocabulary.
"We'll see . . ."
How many times did we hear our parents say this? We knew they were buying time, avoiding a fight or confrontation, or really saying no. It's better to be decisive and honest by saying, "I need more information. Please present your case or send me the data--both pro and con--so I can make an informed decision." That way, the interested parties will contribute to an in-depth, well-researched "verdict."
This column is an excerpt of "Surviving the Toxic Workplace" (McGraw-Hill, 2010), by Linnda Durre, a psychotherapist, business consultant, and columnist. You can follow her on Twitter: @LinndaDurreShow.
Friday, March 26, 2010
ask the right question
Monday, March 1, 2010
A Map to Grocery Store Savings

by Bobbi Dempsey
If you're like many people, you stroll through your local supermarket without giving much attention to its design.
"I don't think people are aware how much we think about where to put items," says Joseph Trimble, owner of Encinal Market in Alameda, California, and a 20-year veteran of the grocery industry. "And it's not just the expensive items. Items we want customers to buy -- as in, organic/natural -- are 'featured' at eye level."
Because there's a strong correlation between an item's location and its price, knowing how to analyze the supermarket layout can help you slash your grocery bills.
Strategically Placed Sale Items
"End caps will often carry sale or discontinued items," says Jeanette Pavini, household savings expert with Coupons.com. "Stores realize their weekly ad specials are what drive customers into the store, so these specials are often placed in the back of the store so you will have to walk through the aisles to get to the prized item – stopping to pick up other items along the way."
By stacking sale items in large displays at the end of aisles, the retailer hopes to make up for a lower profit margin with additional sales.
Avoid Impulse Buys
On the other hand, pricey convenience items are often located near the checkouts, where you'll be more likely to make a spur-of-the-moment purchase. "You may actually find that same item in the store somewhere else at a less expensive price," says Pavini
Beware of Pricey Pairs
Stores sometimes carefully match up two or more grocery items that fit together, pushing a higher-priced selection in the process.
"Usually if there's an item that can be partnered with something -- like salsa with chips, or dressing with salad -- the store will carry its more-expensive versions next to the product so you can grab it and go," Pavini says. "The less-expensive versions of that salsa or dressing could be found in their own designated aisles."
Search High and Low
Within the aisles, shelf positioning is also an important factor.
"The least-expensive items are generally placed lower on the shelves or on the top shelf," says Trimble. "Higher-priced items will generally be placed in the area between four and six feet off the ground. It's right at eye level and will get the most looks. Private label brands will also be featured at eye level because the store is making a higher profit percentage on that item when compared to its national brand."
Look in the 'Right' Direction
"Most people are right handed and tend to reach in that direction," says Trimble, "so placing expensive items on the right of a comparable item that is less expensive can help get extra sales."
Go Straight for the Staples -- and Don't Stop Along the Way
It happens every time. You run to the store for milk and bread -- and end up walking out with a dozen bags full of stuff.
"There's a reason why the meat, eggs, milk and other staples are located so far from the entrance," says Kimberly Danger of Mommysavers.com. "Supermarket designers lay out the basics along the perimeter to get customers who stop in to pick up a few things to pass by other tempting foods, linger just a bit longer and hopefully pick up a few things that weren't on the list."
To avoid detours that can tempt you to load up your cart, Danger suggests sticking to the store's perimeter.
Tips From an Industry Design Expert
Curt Johnson is vice president of client strategy for Miller Zell, a firm specializing in retail design and strategic planning for companies that include some of the top grocery chains. He offers a few quick tips on where the "hot deals" are often located:
• Front lobby and walk-in area: "Publix merchandises all of its 'buy one, get one free' deals as the first thing you see when you enter the store," Johnson says. • Near checkout: "Kroger places hot deals in 'action alley' near the checkout location," he says. "This includes deli and bakery items as well."
Some Additional Tips From Johnson
• Each grocery store chain will vary in traffic patterns, but as a rule the perimeter and "power aisles" will cater to price-sensitive items that are tied to weekly print ads or special promotions. • Also, hidden pricing for consumers will sometimes appear as special chain alerts, such as "10 for $10" selections, placed in areas away from the center aisle shelves. • Hidden pricing gems can be found in "seasonal" or occasion-based aisles.
The Bottom Line
By taking a little time to analyze the supermarket's layout, you can target the mostbudget-friendly areas and keep more money in your wallet.
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Best ways to keep your car running
1. Don't Drive
Want your car to last? Don't use it. That sounds obvious, but it's worth keeping in mind.
Chances are there are plenty of times when you currently use your car that you could be walking, biking, using public transportation or carpooling — choices that are better for the environment, your wallet, your health, and the car you won't be driving. It's simple: The less you drive, the longer your car will last.
2. Make Fewer Short Trips
Short trips of less than 10 minutes can be particularly hard on a car, resulting in excessive wear and tear. During a short trip, your car's engine never has a chance to reach its full operating temperature.
So what? Here's why it matters: One of the byproducts of engine combustion is water. When an engine reaches its operating temperature that water turns to vapor and is expunged, either out the tailpipe or the crankcase ventilation system. On a short trip, however, that water stays inside your car's engine and exhaust. Unfortunately, water is one of only three ingredients necessary to make rust (you've already got the other two, oxygen and metal), and rust kills. Look at any of my brother's cars.
A further complication of condensation and water is that it dilutes your oil, which then does a poorer job of lubricating the engine. If you can't avoid taking lots of short trips, we recommend you change your oil frequently, such as every 2,000-3,000 miles.
3. When Shopping for a New Car, Choose Carefully
If you're in the market for a new car — and you'd like that car to last until the start of the Sasha Obama administration — be sure to choose a car company that's going to be around for a while, with a good reputation for supplying parts.
Here's a sad but true fact: Too many perfectly good-running cars are junked because it's hard to get parts for them. So here's our recommendation: Talk to your local independent mechanic and find a company that has a good reputation for supplying parts for its older vehicles. Our personal favorites are Volvo, Toyota and Saab (although everything is subject to change these days). These brands have a reputation for longevity, so it's understandable that they'd want to make sure they make parts available for many years.
4. Drive Gently
When you drive, do your car a favor and drive gently.
Think of your car like your own body. What's more likely to land you in a full-body cast: A gentle walk around the park, or a season of rugby? We rest our case.
What does "drive gently" mean? It means accelerating slowly, not snapping your head back. It means anticipating your braking so you can brake gently and avoid panic stops. It means not revving your engine in the driveway when it's cold, before the oil is warm and freely circulating.
If it's below freezing outside, allow your car a minute or so to warm up before driving it hard. Then drive slowly for another minute or two, until the engine oil has warmed up and started to fully lubricate all the components.
Finally, if your car is new, follow the break-in recommendations in your owner's manual. Regardless of the manufacturer's recommendation, we advise changing your car's oil after your inaugural 1,000 miles.
5. Watch for Engine Warning Signs
It's OK to drive your car short distances with certain warning lights illuminated or gauges out of their normal range, but there are three that you dismiss at your car's peril: the engine oil light, the engine temperature gauge and the brake light. A few minutes of an excessively hot engine or low oil pressure and the groceries you're hauling in the back could suddenly be worth more than your car. A couple of minutes with the brake light on and you might end up playing bumper cars with theCadillac Escalade ahead of you. The one being driven by Tony Soprano. In a bad mood.
Get in the habit of glancing at your engine's temperature gauge and warning lights. If the idiot lights come on, pull over as soon as it's safe to do so and shut off the engine. You might just save yourself an expensive engine rebuild — much to the disappointment of your mechanic.
6. Unload Extra Weight
Most of us know what it feels like to be hauling a few extra doughnuts around the midriff, so to speak. It places extra demands on our engine, and it creates suspension, braking and even exhaust problems. If you catch our drift.
It's no different with your car. Extra weight adds stress to critical systems and causes premature wear. Check your car right now. What's in there that can come out? Toss out the four bowling balls, the barbells and the lead-lined box of plutonium fuel rods. You might even consider removing your mother-in-law — as long as she doesn't have to come inside the house, that is.
You should also remove anything that causes additional drag. Creating aerodynamic drag is similar to adding weight in that it increases the demand on your engine, so think about removing the big, flat bug shield that sticks up above your hood. Remove any roof racks you're not actively using, and take the cargo carrier off the top of the minivan. We know it gives you some hope of looking cool, like you do something besides haul kids around, but it's killing your gas mileage and making your engine work harder.
7. Do Your Regular Maintenance
Skipping regularly scheduled maintenance intervals is one of the quickest ways to assure your car finds its way to an early grave. Regular oil changes and oil, fuel and air filter changes all help make sure your car has what it needs to run without problems: clean air and clean fuel, plus fresh, uncontaminated oil to prevent wear and tear.
An added bonus to regular service? It gives good mechanics an opportunity to spot problems before they balloon into something more serious.
If you're wondering how often to do these things, there's a book that explains it all to you. It's called the owner's manual. You'll find it in your glove box, shrink-wrapped in plastic, because — if you're like most of us — you've probably never looked at it. In the back you'll find a list of service intervals, and the services that are recommended during each of them. If intervals in the book stop at 120,000 miles, that doesn't mean you're done with maintenance. Go back to the beginning and start over (so, for instance, do all the services called for in the 7,500-mile service at 127,500). Nice try, though.
By the way, if you're fretting over the ongoing cost of routine service, remember our maxim: "It's the stingy man who makes the most boat payments!"
8. Change Oil and Other Vital Fluids
Your car's fluids will often be changed during regular service intervals, but it's important enough that we wanted to mention it separately. As you drive your car, and even if it just sits in the driveway, your car's fluids degrade.
That's a problem because each of the fluids in your car is vital to the long-term health of the engine, transmission, steering or brakes. Simply keeping the fluids topped off isn't enough because over time they lose important properties — like their ability to remove heat and lubricate, as well as the ability to prevent rust and freezing.
What fluids are we talking about? Transmission, differential, brake and power-steering fluid; oil; and antifreeze. Windshield washer fluid? Not so important.
Regular transmission and differential fluid changes are often overlooked, but this service is very important. If you really want to keep your car forever, our suggestion is to get these fluids changed every 60,000 miles whether your owner's manual recommends it or not. Fresh, clean transmission fluid assures that your car's drivetrain stays cool and uncontaminated. Some cars, by the way, have two separate differentials. Be sure to ask your mechanic if yours is one, and make sure that both sets of differential oil get changed. It's easy to overlook this particular service, but you do so at your own peril: A cooked differential can cost thousands of dollars to repair. Routine maintenance service is much less expensive; it should cost about $150 to get your transmission fluid flushed and replaced, and another $100 to do both differentials.
By the way, if your mechanic tries to sell you new blinker fluid, lace up your Pro-Keds and run out of there as fast as you can.
9. Get Problems Checked Out Sooner Rather Than Later
This is like saying "Don't let a cold turn into pneumonia." If you have a small problem with your car, get it checked out sooner rather than later.
For example, a torn CV boot is a common problem and a simple repair. Delay getting it fixed, though, and you'll eventually end up by the side of the road, unable to drive and forced to fork over some additional money for a tow and a whole new axle.
That's just one example. There are many other problems that start small but balloon into something much larger if they're not addressed right away. Don't believe in this theory? Talk to the secretary of the Treasury Department.
Above all, make sure your car is safe to drive. If you have any doubts about such things as brakes, brake lines, ball joints, tie rods, airbags, seat belts or even the structural integrity of your car, get it checked out. Remember: Even though you want your car to last a long time, you still want to outlive your car.
10. Find a Mechanic You Trust
Find a mechanic you trust intuitively. Think of maintaining your car as a partnership between you and your mechanic. Or, more precisely, between your bank account and the bank holding the loan on your mechanic's yacht. Money only moves in one direction, and in exchange you get a car that runs reliably.
Having a good working relationship with your mechanic will enable you to make wise decisions when the time comes — and you won't have nagging doubts about the truthfulness of what you're being told. This is such an important point we wrote an entire feature on how to develop a great relationship with your mechanic. All platonic, mind you.
How do you find a great mechanic? When you find someone you think you like, ask for recommendations from longtime customers. If you're new to an area, or your mechanic just retired to the Home for Aged Grease Monkeys, ask friends or try searching our database of recommended mechanics, the Mechanics Files.
More automobiles tips and advice go to: Autos.yahoo.com
Saturday, May 2, 2009
CHewing gum on clothing tip
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
not so a good idea
Monday, January 19, 2009
10 Questions Never to Ask in Job Interviews

The Savvy Networker
10 Questions Never to Ask in Job Interviews
1. "What does your company do?" This was a reasonable interview question in 1950 or in 1980, before the Internet existed. Today, it's your job to research any company you're interviewing with before setting foot in the door. We need to show up for a job interview knowing what the employer does, who its competitors are, and which of its accomplishments (or challenges) have made the news lately.
2. "Are you going to do a background check?"
It is amazing how many job candidates ask this question, which provokes alarm on the part of the interviewer, instead of the more general, "Can you please tell me a little about your selection process, from this point on?" Lots of people have credit issues that cause them worry during a job search, or aren't sure how solid their references from a previous job might be. If you're invited for a second interview, you can broach any sensitive topics from your past then. Asking "Will you do a background check?" makes you look like a person with something to hide.
3. "When will I be eligible for a raise?" Companies fear underpaying people almost as much as they fear overpaying them, because a person who's underpaid vis-a-vis his counterparts in the job market is a person with one eye on the career sites. Instead of asking about your first raise before you've got the job, you can ask (at a second interview) "Does your organization do a conventional one-year performance and salary review?"
4. "Do you have any other jobs available?" A job search requires quick thinking about straight talk, and if a job is far below your abilities, you're better off saying so than beating around the bush with this question. You don't have to take yourself out of the running; you can say, "The job sounds interesting, but frankly I was earning 30% more and supervising people in my last job. Could you help me understand the career path for this role?" That's the cue for the interviewer, if he or she is on the ball, to highlight another job opening that might exist.
5. "How soon can I transfer to another position?" You're broadcasting "I'm outta here at the first chance" when you ask this question. If you like the job, take the job. If it's not for you, wait for the right opportunity. Almost every employer will keep you in your seat for at least one year before approving an internal transfer, so a job-search bait-and-switch probably won't work out the way you'd hoped.
6. "Can you tell me about bus lines to your facility?" Get online and research this yourself. It's not your employer's problem to figure out how you get to work.
7. "Do you have smoking breaks?" If you're working in retail or in a call center, you could ask about breaks. Everyone else, keep mum; if your need to smoke intrudes so much on your work life that you feel the need to ask about it, ask your best friend or significant other for smoking-cessation help as a new-job present. Lots of companies don't permit smoking anywhere on the premises, and some don't like to hire smokers at all. Why give an employer a reason to turn you down?
8. "Is [my medical condition] covered under your insurance?" This is a bad question on two counts. You don't want to tell a perfect stranger about your medical issues, especially one who's deciding whether or not to hire you. Ask to see a copy of the company's benefits booklet when an offer has been extended. This is also a bad question from a judgment standpoint; no department managers and only a tiny percentage of HR people could be expected to know on a condition-by-condition basis what's covered under the health plan. Anyway, your pre-existing condition won't be covered under most corporate plans for at least a year.
9. "Do you do a drug test?" If you have a philosophical objection to drug tests, wait until they ask you to take a drug test and tell them about your objection. Otherwise, your question sounds like, "I'd fail a drug test," so don't ask.
10. "If you hire me, can I wait until [more than three weeks from now] to start the job?" Employers expect you to give two weeks' notice. If you're not working, they'd love to see you more quickly. If you ask for tons of time off before you start working -- unless you have a very good reason -- the employer may think, "How serious is this candidate about working?" In any case, a start-date extension is something to request after you've got the offer in hand, not before.
Liz Ryan is a 25-year HR veteran, former Fortune 500 VP and an internationally recognized expert on careers and the new millennium workplace. Contact Liz at liz@asklizryan.com or join the Ask Liz Ryan online community at www.asklizryan/group. The opinions expressed in this column are solely the author's.

